Tesla Charge Cost Calculator

Updated .

This calculator turns the energy added in one charge and your own price per kWh into three numbers: the cost of that charge, the cost per mile or kilometre driven on it, and a monthly estimate from how many times you charge. You can add a charging-loss percentage if you know one for your setup. Every figure is yours; the tool supplies only the arithmetic.

This tool needs JavaScript. Work it out on paper: divide the kWh added by (1 minus the loss as a fraction), multiply by your price per kWh for the cost of a charge, divide that by the distance for the cost per mile or km, and multiply by charges per month. The method and a worked example below let you reach the same answer on paper.

Tesla Charge Cost Calculator

The boxes start with the worked example’s hypothetical numbers. Replace them with figures from your own car, manual and bills.

The charge

Read it from the car’s charging summary or the charger’s session screen. Screen names differ between models and software versions. The 40 shown is a hypothetical example.

Your own tariff, or the amount you were billed divided by the kWh. If a public charger also bills per minute or adds fees, divide the total paid by the kWh to get one price. The 0.15 shown is a hypothetical example.

Some of the energy drawn from the wall never reaches the battery. Leave this at 0 to ignore it, or enter a figure from your own car’s charging summary or your own meter comparison if you have one.

Your driving

Use the distance covered on the energy this charge replaced, for example the odometer difference between two charges.

A rough average is fine.

Your result

  • Energy drawn from the supply —
  • Cost of this charge —
  • Cost per mile or km —
  • Monthly estimate —

Everything you type stays in your browser. Nothing is sent anywhere, and nothing is stored — reloading the page clears it.

How it works

The calculator uses four steps, all shown here so you can repeat them on paper:

  1. Energy from the supply = energy added ÷ (1 − loss ÷ 100). With a loss of 0 this is just the energy added.
  2. Cost of the charge = energy from the supply × your price per kWh.
  3. Cost per mile or km = cost of the charge ÷ distance driven on that energy.
  4. Monthly estimate = cost of the charge × charges per month.

About the loss figure. Charging is not perfectly efficient, so the energy you are billed for at home can be higher than the energy the car reports adding. The calculator defines loss as the share of the energy drawn that never reaches the battery. If you can compare a home meter or smart-charger reading with the kWh your car says it added, the gap divided by the meter reading is your loss percentage. If you cannot measure it, leave it at 0 and treat the result as a lower bound. This site does not supply a typical loss figure because it varies with the charger, the supply and conditions.

About the price. Use what you actually pay. On a time-of-use home tariff, use the rate for the hours you charge in. At a public charger, use total paid ÷ kWh so that session or time-based fees are included. The distance is only as good as the match between the energy and the miles it covered, so for a steadier figure run the tool on several charges and average the results.

Worked example

Suppose a charge adds 40 kWh at a hypothetical price of 0.15 per kWh. The driver compared a home meter with the car’s summary and decides to enter a 10% loss. They drove 150 miles since the previous charge and charge about 8 times a month.

Energy from the supply: 40 ÷ (1 − 0.10) = 44.44 kWh. Cost of the charge: 44.44 × 0.15 = 6.67. Cost per mile: 6.67 ÷ 150 = 0.044. Monthly: 6.67 × 8 = 53.33.

With the loss left at 0, the same inputs give 40 kWh, a charge cost of 6.00, 0.040 per mile and 48.00 a month. The difference, about 5.33 a month, is the cost of the energy that never reached the battery, which is why it is worth measuring once if you charge at home most days. These numbers are illustrative arithmetic, not a statement about any Tesla model, tariff or charger.

Frequently asked questions

Do I have to enter a charging loss?

No. It is optional and defaults to 0. If you leave it at 0 the result is a lower bound, because some energy drawn from the supply may not reach the battery.

Where do I find the kWh added?

Look at the charging summary on the car’s screen or the session screen of the charger you used. Names and locations differ between models and software releases, so check your owner’s manual if you cannot find it.

How do I find my price per kWh?

At home, read it from your electricity bill or tariff, and use the rate for the hours you charge. At a public charger, divide the total you paid by the kWh delivered so that any time-based or session fees are included.

Why is my cost per mile different from last month?

Energy use per mile changes with speed, temperature, wind and hills, and so does the share of charging that happens on a cheaper or dearer tariff. Averaging several charges gives a steadier figure than any single one.

Does this send my numbers anywhere?

No. The calculation runs in your browser and nothing is stored or sent.