Routine type
A tone-evening routine combining multiple tyrosinase inhibitors at modest strengths plus a retinoid for cell turnover — built to be tolerable for skin of color and prone-to-flare skin.
Who it is for
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from acne, eczema, or injury.
- Sun-induced spots and overall uneven tone.
- Melasma (cooperative with a dermatologist's plan).
Morning steps
- Gentle cleanser.
- Vitamin C (LAA 10–15% or stable derivative).
- Niacinamide 5%.
- Light ceramide moisturizer.
- Tinted mineral SPF 30–50 — iron oxides block visible light, critical for melasma.
Evening steps
- Cleanser.
- Mon/Wed/Fri: Azelaic acid 10–15%.
- Tue/Thu/Sat: Retinol 0.3–0.5% or Rx tretinoin.
- Sun: Tranexamic acid 2–5% if tolerated.
- Always finish: ceramide moisturizer.
Weekly treatments
- 1× per week: low-dose lactic or mandelic acid serum on a no-active night (skip if barrier is iffy).
- Optional spot treatment: alpha arbutin 2% directly on stubborn spots.
Common mistakes
- Aggressive peeling that re-inflames and worsens pigment, especially in deeper skin tones.
- Skipping tinted SPF, treating UV-only protection as enough for melasma.
- Picking acne. Every pick is months of PIH.
- Stopping after 4 weeks "because it's not working." 8–16 weeks is the realistic window.
Product recommendations
Budget
- The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%.
- The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA.
- CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum.
- La Roche-Posay Anthelios Mineral Tinted Ultra-Light Fluid SPF 50.
Mid-tier
- Naturium Tranexamic Topical Acid 5%.
- Maelove Glow Maker.
- EltaMD UV Daily Tinted SPF 40.
- Medik8 Crystal Retinal.
Luxury
- SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense.
- SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic.
- ISDIN Eryfotona Ageless Tinted SPF 50.
- Obagi Nu-Derm Clear (Rx setting, hydroquinone-containing).
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Seasonal adjustments
- Summer: tinted SPF every 2 hours outdoors; consider a wide-brim hat; reduce retinoid frequency.
- Winter: add an emollient on top of moisturizer; tinted SPF still daily (UVA + visible light through windows).
- Pregnancy / postpartum: swap retinoid for azelaic acid + tranexamic acid; consult provider.