Symptoms and context
Hyperpigmentation is excess melanin in the skin. The common types:
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) — flat brown marks left after acne, eczema, or injury.
- Sun-induced spots — diffuse or patchy darkening from UV.
- Melasma — symmetrical, often hormonal, frequently triggered by visible light as well as UV.
- Solar lentigines — discrete "sun spots."
Common causes
- UV exposure (chronic and acute).
- Visible light exposure (especially for melasma).
- Inflammation (acne, eczema, picking, harsh exfoliation).
- Hormones — pregnancy, oral contraceptives, hormone replacement therapy.
- Genetic predisposition; deeper skin tones produce more pigment more easily.
Routine principles
- Daily sunscreen is the treatment. No active works without it.
- Don't irritate. Inflammation reignites pigment, especially in deeper skin tones.
- Stack multiple tyrosinase inhibitors at modest strengths.
- Be patient. Visible change takes 8–16 weeks; melasma is a years-long management problem.
Morning routine
- Gentle cleanser.
- Vitamin C (10–20% LAA or 5–10% derivative).
- Niacinamide 5%.
- Moisturizer.
- Tinted mineral SPF 50 (iron oxides block visible light, key for melasma).
Evening routine
- Gentle cleanser.
- Azelaic acid 10%–20% (every night or alternated with retinoid).
- Retinoid (every other night), built up slowly.
- Ceramide moisturizer.
Ingredients to prioritize
- Vitamin C — tyrosinase inhibition + photoprotection.
- Azelaic acid 10–20% — gentle, pregnancy-safe.
- Niacinamide — reduces melanosome transfer.
- Tranexamic acid 2–5% topical — strong evidence in melasma.
- Retinoids — turnover, evens tone over time.
- Kojic acid, alpha arbutin, licorice extract — secondary stacking actives.
- Hydroquinone 4% (Rx) — most potent, requires cycling, dermatologist-led.
Ingredients to use carefully
- Strong AHAs over large areas — irritation reignites pigment.
- Bare physical exfoliants on melasma.
- High-strength essential oils, citrus oils — photo-aggravating.
- Long-term hydroquinone without breaks (ochronosis risk).
Recommended products
Budget options
- The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%.
- The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA.
- Hada Labo Tinted Mineral SPF 50+.
Mid-tier
- Naturium Tranexamic Topical Acid 5%.
- Maelove Glow Maker (vitamin C).
- EltaMD UV Daily Tinted SPF 40.
Luxury options
- SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense.
- SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic.
- ISDIN Eryfotona Ageless Tinted Mineral SPF 50.
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When to see a professional
- Persistent melasma despite consistent routine + sunscreen.
- Deeper skin tones with PIH that isn't fading after 4 months.
- Pigment that changes shape, raises, or bleeds — could be a different lesion.
- Pregnant or postpartum with melasma — limits the OTC options available.
Dermatologists offer hydroquinone-containing prescription regimens (Triluma), oral tranexamic acid in select patients, chemical peels, and lasers/IPL — all with careful selection in skin of color.