The eight criteria
| 1. Ingredient quality | What's actually doing the work? We read the INCI list end-to-end and weight ingredients by likely concentration, form, and known stability. |
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| 2. Evidence strength | We label evidence as Strong, Moderate, Emerging, or Weak based on study type, sample size, replication, and skin-relevant endpoints. |
| 3. Skin-type suitability | Dry, oily, combination, sensitive, acne-prone, rosacea-prone, mature, post-procedure. We say who this is for and who it isn't. |
| 4. Irritation risk | Penetration enhancers, fragrance, essential oils, alcohol denat, high-strength actives, and known contact allergens. Labeled Low, Moderate, or High. |
| 5. Texture & performance | Spreadability, finish, pilling, layerability, scent, sting on application. Multi-week wear notes where possible. |
| 6. Value | Cost per use vs realistic alternatives — including drugstore equivalents. |
| 7. Alternatives | Every review names at least one cheaper alternative and, where relevant, one luxury alternative. |
| 8. Transparency | Affiliate status, samples (PR or purchased), and any brand relationship are stated on the page. |
Evidence labels in detail
- Strong — multiple well-designed RCTs in humans, with reproducible outcomes on clinically meaningful endpoints.
- Moderate — a small number of human studies, consistent direction, or strong mechanistic + observational support.
- Emerging — early human data, often single-study, often manufacturer-funded; biological plausibility is real but conclusions are premature.
- Weak — in-vitro or animal data only; marketing claims outrun the science.
How we source products
- Most products are purchased at retail.
- PR samples are accepted but never tied to coverage. We disclose them on the review page.
- No product gets coverage in exchange for purchase, advertising, or affiliate commitments.
Conflicts of interest
If a writer holds a relationship with a brand — past employment, paid consulting, family — that writer does not cover that brand. If we miss something, please tell us.
Corrections policy
Material errors are corrected promptly and noted with a dated correction line. Substantive updates (formula change, new evidence, recall, regulatory action) are flagged at the top of the review.
One-line version
We grade ingredients, evidence, fit, risk, performance, value, and alternatives — and we tell you when money changed hands.